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Men and Women Skincare Tips 101
From USA Today April 7, 2008 Patients need to seek out physician with education and interest in ethnic skin" read more.... links to full article new page
 Patients' ethnicity can change the face of dermatology
By Mary Brophy Marcus, Special for USA TODAY
Easier to irritate brown skin There's a definite need for such as specialty, says Rebat Halder, professor and chairman of the department of dermatology at Howard University in Washington, D.C. By 2050, Halder says, half the population in the USA will be either African-American, Hispanic, Asian or Native American. According to the U.S. Census Bureau, about one-third of the population now has skin of color.
Halder is president of a steadily growing professional organization, The Skin of Color Society, aimed at promoting education and research related to treating skin of color. Launched four years ago, its membership of mostly dermatologists has reached 100 and is increasing, Halder says.
 Brown skin contains more melanin, or dark pigment, Taylor says. She says melanin levels vary dramatically among the ethnic groups. Cells called melanocytes make the melanin. Melanocytes, the cells in the upper layer of the skin, are more reactive in darker skin and can release more melanin when they're irritated, says Hema Sundaram, a dermatologist in the Washington area.
"Any type of irritation to dark skin — an ingrown hair, acne or a poor laser treatment — can cause dark discoloration, called hyperpigmentation, that will last for months, even years," says Sundaram, who notes that scars on white skin tend to be pink and resolve more quickly.
Brown-skinned people are more vulnerable to melasma (dark patches resulting from pregnancy and genetics) and vitiligo (a genetic condition that causes uneven-shaped areas with no pigmentation at all) as well, Taylor says. Certain medications for high blood pressure, diabetes and heart disease also can cause brown skin to discolor.
Skin cancer is often overlooked in people of color because it is assumed they just don't develop the disease, says Peggy Fuller, a dermatologist in Charlotte. "Have you ever seen a skin cancer pamphlet with pictures of black skin with a melanoma?"
Says Taylor, "Skin conditions and treatments should not always be dealt with the same way in whites as they are in skin of color." In whites, for example, washing the hair often helps clear up dandruff, while black women who shampoo daily may exacerbate a dry scalp and hair and cause increased breakage. Who needs an expert? Sundaram, a laser expert who has conducted research and lectured on the topic, says: "With brown skin, you need to use appropriate lasers and modified settings to avoid burns and discoloration. "You may also need to be less aggressive with facial peels because taking off too many layers at once can lead to scarring." Even women with the same brown skin tone but different cultural backgrounds may react differently to the same procedures, says Flor Mayoral, a dermatologist in Miami. Mayoral recommends that patients ask to have a test spot done before having a full skin procedure.
 Mayoral, who is of Hispanic heritage, also advises patients to make sure their dermatologist "knows who you are, your ethnic background." Though Sundaram applauds the fact that more dermatologists are taking an interest in treating patients of color, she is concerned that it sends the wrong message. "Does it imply that mainstream dermatologists can't treat patients of color?"
Sundaram says it also suggests that patients who go to experts in skin of color won't run into problems. She says at least one in five of her patients with brown skin initially come in because he or she has had inappropriate treatments, even at skin centers that promote themselves as experts in brown skin. "I saw an African-American woman in her 30s the other day with dark moles on her face," Sundaram says. "A dermatologist had frozen them off, and it had caused permanent white spots. I would never use liquid nitrogen on the face of a patient of color, ever, ever.
"There needs to be better training, and patients need to research more carefully before selecting a skin expert." |
Men and Women Skincare Tips 101
 You see it on television and in magazines. You desire it and wonder how you can get it. What is it? Beautiful skin. Is it perfect? Not likely, because models and celebrities have an arsenal of beauty weapons the average woman doesn't have access to: professional makeup artists, exclusive cosmetics, and airbrushing among them.
While perfect skin is usually the hallmark of babies and retouched photographs, beautiful, healthy skin is within your grasp. For black women, a smooth, even complexion is attainable with proper care. Beautiful skin often begins inside and radiates outward. A healthy diet is vital. This means eating good-for-you foods and saving indulgent treats for special occasions. Fruits and vegetables should make up a large portion of your daily intake. Fatty, fried foods should be kept to a minimum. Instead, bake, sauté (in olive oil or oily sprays), or broil your food. Also, the importance of water cannot be overemphasized. Drink at least the recommended eight cups a day and compensate for alcoholic and caffeinated beverages with more water.
Exercise is also a good component to skin care. Regular workouts keep the skin toned and make you feel good. Find an activity you like, be it biking, walking, jogging, swimming, or sports. If you like what you do, you're more likely to stick with it for the long haul.
 Besides following a healthy lifestyle, what else can black women do to maintain touchably soft skin? Moisturizers are a must. Darker skin has a tendency to appear "ashy" when it's not well-lubricated. Creams and lotions, best applied after showering when skin is slightly damp and better able to hold in moisture, are plentiful.
They range from drugstore brands to department store brands and you're sure to find one in your price range that you like. For the face, it's best to use a separate moisturizer made specifically for your facial needs. Some women have dry skin, some have oily skin, and some have a combination of both. Once you identify the type of facial skin you have, use products geared toward your particular needs. For any type of skin, gentle handling should be followed.
A facial cleanser should be used in the morning and at night, especially to wash off cosmetics and a day's worth of grime. Dry skin tends to do better with non-soapy cleansers since soap can be even more drying. Oily skin often likes soap. The common mistake is to use an over the counter face soap to clean problem skin.
For problem skin, we recommend NeoStrata Antibacterial Cleanser (8321) or Foaming Glycolic (8205). These agents clean, decrease bacterial count and exfoliate. Like moisturizers, there are dozens of cleansers to choose from. You can use your clean hands to wash your face, but if you use washcloths or sponges, these items must be washed or replaced frequently to prevent an overgrowth of germs and bacteria, which will lead to skin problems.
Recommended NeoStrata Cleansers for problem skin: Antibacterial Cleanser (8321), Foaming Glycolic wash (8205)
 Black women, especially of the darker skin tones, often believe they don't need to use sunscreen since blacks rarely complain of sunburn, but this is false. Black skin also needs protection from the damaging rays of the sun. It is nice to find moisturizers which contain sunscreen as this single combination product does the job of two. A good product from NeoStrata is Oil Free lotion SPF 15 (8318) or Daytime Protection Cream SPF 15 (8414)
Make sure to use sunscreen daily, year-round, to prevent wrinkles and skin cancer. It's also a good idea to wear wide-brimmed hats if you know you're going to be outside for a while, whether gardening or just being out and about; the hat will shade your face from the sun.
Recommended Sunscreen Moisturizers/SPF:
Oil free lotion SPF 15 PHA 4 (8318),
Daytime Protection Cream SPF15 PHA 10 (8414),
Ultra Smoothing Cream SPF 15 AHA 10 (8006)
If you suffer from acne, do not pick at pimples. For Acne, we recommend Acne Treatment Pads (8322) or Spot Treatement Gel (8320) from NeoStrata. This often leaves unattractive scarring and black skin is much more prone to developing keloids as a result. Keloids are scar tissue caused by trauma or surgical incisions.
If you find yourself developing discoloration after a break out, consider Skin Lightening AHA 10 (8007), Bionic Skin Lightening SPF 15 (8411) from NeoStrata.
It is important to treat the acne gently, but effectively. Washing too vigorously and handling roughly will only make the problem worse. You'll have to find a cleanser and moisturizer made specifically for your skin's needs. There are several acne-specific lines to choose from. Again, following a healthy diet and being active also can help to prevent breakouts.
Recommended Acne fighting products from NeoStrata: Acne Tx Pads (8322), Spot Tx Gel (8320)
For most of us, having healthy skin takes a small amount of work, but beautiful skin is worth the effort. Whether you have ten minutes or an hour's worth of pampering, take the time you need. Every time you look in a mirror, you'll be glad you did.
Get a free, no-obligation online consultation regarding your individual skincare concerns. Let our physician create a regimen that will address your unique concerns.
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